big pancake, bigger taste

Sometimes the most impressive foods are the simplest.  With the right tools, an adventurous palette, and trust in the process, you can turn the ordinary into the extraordinary.  This week, I've turned leftover breakfast burritos into both fried rice and quesadillas.  Building upon flavor profiles and incorporating fresh ingredients is the name of the game.

Yesterday's mid-morning snack lead to an updated flavor of one of my favorites: the Dutch Baby Pancake.  I had some fresh figs and a bit of Gorgonzola, so I gave it a shot and made the most delicious fig and Gorgonzola pancake, topped with a fig and balsamic caramel syrup.  Here's the base recipe:

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/2 cup flour
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 425F/218C.  Place the cold butter in the cold oven safe pie plate or skillet and into the oven.  For this recipe, I use the 10" All-Clad D5 frying pan.  It's layers of stainless steel and aluminum make for consistent, even heating, plus it's oven and dishwasher safe. 
 

While the butter is melting and the oven is warming, this is where you can get creative with your toppings and fillings.  I've made the traditional way and topped the pancake with fresh lemon juice and powdered sugar, as well as more inventive flavors, like diced rhubarb in the batter and covered with fresh strawberries.  The possibilities are endless - fresh lavender topped with honey, brie with fresh cherries or sauteed apples, pistachio topped with pear...you get the point, anything you love can be mixed into the batter or topped onto the finished cake.   

Today I am trying out a Gorgonzola and fig combination.  I diced the figs into eight wedges and broke up probably an ounce or so of cheese.  Side note: make sure your knife is very sharp, so you don't crush the figs.  I used my Shun santoku - it's a combination chefs knife and cleaver, and perfect for slicing, mincing, and chopping.  Plus, the steel is hand-forged and ice-hardened, so you get incredible strength and durability.  I also really like the plastic Dexas cutting mats as shown below - they're dishwasher safe and help keep your butcher block or counter from getting dirty or contaminated.  

When the butter has melted, remove from the oven.  Meanwhile, mix the eggs, flour, milk, sugar, and salt.  Add whichever flavors you prefer and fold gently.  Pour the ingredients into the hot pan/butter.   Don't worry - it'll look like you've messed up.  I know I always second guess myself the instant I pour the batter into the hot, melty butter.  I think there's no possible way that this is going to turn out right, let alone anything I'll want to eat.  But trust the process. 

 
Return to oven.  Bake 18 - 20 minutes, until puffy and golden brown. And do yourself a favor - remember that the pan is going to be HOT from the oven, so I leave my pot holders right on top of the stove as a gentle reminder. 

 

While the pancake is baking, think about your toppings.  Today I added a few small wedges of fresh fig with a tablespoon of sugar and a quarter cup of Lucero's fig infused balsamic vinegar.  I cooked it in this cutest, tiniest little Staub cocotte - the enamel coated cast iron controls temperature over extended periods of time, and makes for the perfect single serving of syrup.  I stirred the sugar into the vinegar and figs, and warmed over medium-low heat for the duration of the baking time.  Ultimately, the liquid reduced by about 2/3 of the original amount and made a very thick, syrupy style caramel glaze.  I've also made a simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water) and added fresh lemon zest and juice.  Any citrus or mint work well, too. The possibilities are endless.

 

After 18-20 minutes, your pancake will look just like this!  I immediately remove it from the pan and place on a large plate.  There will probably be a bit of melted butter left in the pan, which I always dump right on top of the pancake.  Add your toppings or syrups.

I like showcasing singular ingredients in multiple ways - diced fresh fig baked into the pancake, with fig infused balsamic syrup and topped with raw, fresh figs.  You really get to taste the different layers and levels of flavor this way.  Plus, the Gorgonzola adds a tangy bite and is like the exclamation mark to the figgy flavors!

What flavors will you try?  Let your imagination run wild!

cooks tools

Continuing with my cooking recommendations theme, we move along cooks' tools. With the right implements, instruction, and inspiration, any recipe is possible. Here are a few I'm loving: 

I can't say enough good things about All-Clad.  I love when tools are functional and beautiful, and the All-Clad Cook and Serve set is exactly that. The heavy-grade 18/10 stainless steel construction makes for durable function and easy cleaning (dishwasher safe, too!) behind the scenes, while the mirrored finish adds a dash of style and class for the table.  Comes as a set of six that includes a fork, ladle, spoon, slotted spoon, tongs and storage caddy.  For an added bonus: the caddy can be monogrammed. 

Silicon spoonulas are the perfect mix of spatulas and spoons. I'm notorious for leaving the spatula in the pan or on hot surfaces, so I'm comforted knowing these brilliant bits are heat-resistant to 600ºF, dishwasher safe, and won't chip or crack. They're super handy and come in a variety of colors and sizes each season. I prefer the wooden handle options, because the silicon portion is removable, but the stainless steel options are nice as well. In my opinion, you can't have enough. 

Favored by bartenders and restaurateurs since 1882, Bar Keepers Friend is a premium cleanser and polish makes household surfaces shine like new. They’re the ideal kitchen cleaners-- for countertops, sinks, cooktops, appliances, cookware and more. Working without harmful chlorine bleach, this magical mix removes rust, lime, and hard water stains, as well as tarnish from copper and brass. With a little BKF and a lot of elbow-grease, everything will be sparkling clean. (Side note: BKF works great cleaning the bathtub and shower, too!)

I've sung the praises of the garlic peeler on multiple occasions, and must recommend again. Don't underestimate this peculiar piece - one use and you'll see how easily this floppy tube peels a clove of garlic. Simply insert whole unpeeled cloves, press down firmly, and briskly roll back and forth for a few seconds, until you hear the peel snap. Each week I'll peel and mince 3-4 heads in less than 5 minutes. 

This is a definite luxury, and I absolutely love it. Beautiful and practical, this box keeps up to 8 oz. of cooking salt within close reach. Handcrafted by Bérard of richly grained olive wood with an oil finish, it has a swiveling magnetic lid for easy one-handed access. Makes an incredible gift for house warnings, hostesses and thank yous, and anyone who loves to cook or appreciates great spices. 

I absolutely love cooking, and might have an arsenal full of goodies. These are just a few of the many I love. What tools do you use in your kitchen? 

comfort food

If you haven't yet noticed - I'm super nostalgic. I'm not one of those people who hoards every single item and refuses to throw anything away.  I'm more of a selective hoarder, instead keeping "edited collections" instead of "piles of junk."  I may happen to have boxes of kitchen tools, an overabundance of clothing options, and enough greeting cards and skincare to start my own Hallmark and Sephora.  What can I say?  I like options and to be prepared.

I don't know if "obsessive" is the right term to describing my cooking, but it's much more than a love affair.  Food was always been much more than sustenance - it's been a centerpiece of my life.  From cooking with family and friends, to food shopping, farming and gardening, and managing upscale cooking stores, food is always the focus.

Close your eyes for a moment and think about your favorite holiday.  You may recall a general feeling, a few special memories.  If you were to cook something from that holiday, you'd instantly be transported back in time to the exact places and feelings you experienced.  This is one of the many joys I get from cooking every day - the opportunity to relive great memories and create new ones, as well! 

Here are a few kitchen goodies I'm loving:

I absolutely love garlic.  There aren't many recipes I make that don't have at least a clove or two (or ten!).  Speed up your prep time with this handy plastic tube.  Break apart the head of garlic, place a clove inside the tube, firmly pressing and rolling.  The skin instantly falls off, revealing the "naked" clove.  I can peel a few heads of garlic in just a couple minutes. And to save even more time when cooking, each week I'll prepare both minced and sliced garlic and store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator.  The garlic peeler rinses very easily and is also dishwasher safe.  US$9 at Williams-Sonoma.

This All-Clad splatter screen is a constant in my kitchen.  In short, it's super durable, dishwasher safe, and makes cooking both safer and much cleaner.  It's available in two different sizes, and I chose the larger version, which fits on almost all of my pans and ovens.  Anytime I'm searing, sauteing, braising, or cooking something on higher heats, I use the splatter screen.  From bacon to beef roast and sauces to soups, this kitchen essential prevents painful splatters and pesky messes.  (Side note: a few months ago I was trying out a new recipe for bourbon cheesecake ice cream and needed a fine sieve - a tool I surprisingly don't have.   But with a large mixing bowl, a silicon spatula, and my trusty splatter screen, all was well!)  About US$60 at Williams-Sonoma.

I absolutely love cooking in fabulous French cookware.  In my opinion, Staub's range is the best.  Their enamel-coated cast iron handles heat to 500ºF and is the high-tech version of traditional cast iron.  The interior of all Staub pots are enameled with a matte black finish, which allows for improved resistence to thermal shocks and scratching, making care easier and keeping maximum beauty.  The enamel also has anti-adhesive properties and requires no seasoning before first use, and is incredibly safe - made free of Cadmium, lead, PFOA, and PTFE. Best of all Staub makes for juicier, more succulent food - their lids are covered with little nubs, literally self-braising while cooking.  Staub is made in France, has a lifetime warranty, and compatible with gas, electric, and induction cooking devices.  (Side note: Staub is technically dishwasher safe, but I've always hand washed with Barkeeper's friend and a scrub brush.)  US$319,95 at Sur La Table.  

My favorite knife is all is the Santoku, Japanese for three virtues" or "three uses".  Its blade is typically between 13 and 20 centimetres (5.1 and 7.9 in) long, and has a flat edge and a sheepsfoot blade that curves in an angle approaching 60 degrees at the point. The top of the Santoku's handle is in line with the top of the blade. The word refers to the three cutting tasks which the knife performs well: slicing, chopping, and mincing. The Santoku's blade and handle are designed to work in harmony by matching the blade's width and weight to the those of the tang and handle. 

In short: other than peeling produce or slicing breads, I'm constantly using a Santoku.  My favorite is from a brand called Shun.  Knives must be comfortable in your hand, fitting and weighing perfectly.  When shopping for a new knife, be sure to hold as many as possible to the best fit.  US$225 at Bloomingdale's. 

 These are just a few of my everyday essentials.  What are some of your go-to goodies that you can't cook without? 

condition the goods

I know we're all busy.  It seems like there's no time for anything.  We're working hard and hardly working, all at the same time.  We want to protect our investments and extend their longevity as much as possible.  Here are a few reminders of things to do:

-- if you have any leather furniture, I recommend cleaning and conditioning the hides at least quarterly.  I use Restoration Hardware's Leather CPR that both cleans and conditions the leather.  Cleaning and conditioning the leather removes dirt and stuck-on debris, and prevents cracking and fading.  I massage a generous amount of product and massage it into the leather, allowing it to dry for an hour or so.  I love how soft the leather feels after application, and try to do so every 3-4 months.

-- if you have any wood products in your kitchen, it's so important to condition and clean them at least quarterly with a good wood cleaner / cream.  When wood dries out, it chips, cracks, and stains easily.  I use John Boos' board cream.  It's a mixture of natural bees wax + food grade mineral oil.  I treat my wooden cutting boards, butch block counter tops, spatula handles, and dining table and chairs quarterly.  Make sure your wood products are free of any debris, and then slather the board cream all over, allowing it to soak in for at least an hour or two.  Using the board cream will leave a silky, glossy barrier and lock in the wood's natural moisture and prevent chipping, cracking, and unwanted bleaching.  If you have any surface scratches, chances are the board cream will drastically minimize their appearance, especially when treated quickly after damage.

-- if you have an electric toothbrush, take it apart at least once a month and give the parts a thorough cleaning.  I know I gag every time I dismantle my Sonicare toothbrush for cleaning, and can't imagine how foul and malodorous it would be if I didn't regularly clean it.  Do yourself a favor - and clean the cracks and crevices of your dental appliances regularly.

-- caring for your kitchen cutlery will not only extend their life, but will also optimize their regular use.  Here are a few tips:

• always hand wash and dry your cutlery straight away.  Never put them in the dishwasher - the constant heating and cooling of the dishwasher will cause the metal to constantly expand and contract, cracking the handles and compromising the integrity of the blades.  
• hone your knifes.  If cutting your finger nails is like sharpening your knives, filing your nails is like honing your knives; it creates a smooth edge and makes for effortless cutting.  most knife sets come with a honing steel.  I recommend honing regularly.  If you're not comfortable, or need more information, take a look at Master Bladesmith Bob Kramer giving some tips and tricks: 
• sharpen your knives.  Most better knife manufacturers offer complimentary professional sharpening.  I love Shun's cutlery, and love their complimentary sharpening services.  It's also important to care for other cutting devices - sewing scissors, lawn mowing blades, etc.  Sharp tools make for efficient, longer lasting tools.

When you invest in great things, it's important to care for them.  What're some tips and tricks you have discovered?